Completely Unimpressed

Some of my old 50mm lenses sit on a shelf in my home office. It's always fun to play with these.
Some of my old 50mm lenses sit on a shelf in my home office. It’s always fun to play with these.

I sometimes miss the days of Internet past, when a search yielded an interesting web page that had links in it to other links, which might have still more links. I loved clicking around to see everything from dancing hamsters to moon landing hoaxes.

Now, I say with a heavy sign, the Internet seems to be dead. Look it up if you want: use the phrase “Dead Internet Theory.” I know it’s a “conspiracy theory,” but it makes more sense every day.

With that said, I did a few obscure web searches recently, deliberately trying to find actual, real web content, and I went down one rabbit hole after another.

As a photographer, of course I’ll click on all things photographic. One of these led me to revisit an interesting topic: ultra-large-aperture lenses, especially, in this case, the Nikkor Z 58mm f/0.95.

This lens is what’s known as a “halo” product, something that shows the prestige of the camera maker, car maker, computer maker, fine winery, distillery, etc., but is expensive enough that they actually expect to sell very few of these items.

The 58mm f/0.95 sports a list price of $7999.95. Wow. What could this lens offer that sets it so far above and out of reach? Well, upon reading some reviews and looking at some sample images, the answer is: nothing. Reviews like to point out that the optics are just about perfect, as is the build quality, and that shooting this lens at f/0.95 should result in an impressive amount of selective focus.

Two of my photographer friends and I have occasionally talked about possible renting this lens, which appears to be $363 for seven days from one prominent lens rental place.

Then, of course, the practical photographer in me took over and said, “Can I create what this halo lens can do, with the equipment I already own?” I reached into my bag of tricks and pulled out a broken, 40-year-old Nikkor 50mm f/1.4 that someone had given me, and stepped out into my front yard.

The result, as I might have expected, was every bit as usefully good as the $8000 behemoth. It’s probably not quite as technically perfect, but right out of the camera, it delivered.

So I am completely unimpressed with the idea of an $8000 50mm or 58mm lens.

I always have fun with little “what if” projects like this, and they often remind me of a term I’ve been using in the last couple of years, “Shop your closet first.”

I photographed this Shumard oak leaf lodged in a chain link fence in my front yard just after dusk, using my 40-year-old Nikkor 50mm f/1.4 at f/1.4. I don't know how a much more expensive lens could offer to this image, which is sharp, has good color, and shows great selective focus.
I photographed this Shumard oak leaf lodged in a chain link fence in my front yard just after dusk, using my 40-year-old Nikkor 50mm f/1.4 at f/1.4. I don’t know how a much more expensive lens could offer to this image, which is sharp, has good color, and shows great selective focus.

The Playful Side of Photography

The photography community has been taking itself a little too seriously lately, so I thought it might be fun to explore the more playful side of my work.

I took a vase outside to photograph it against the trees in the front yard with the morning sun shining through them. I made this image with a screw-mount 35mm f/2.8 lens, and the bokeh, the characteristics of the out-of-focus areas in this image, has a ring-like appearance that I think expresses the idea of shimmering.
I took a vase outside to photograph it against the trees in the front yard with the morning sun shining through them. I made this image with a screw-mount 35mm f/2.8 lens, and the bokeh, the characteristics of the out-of-focus areas in this image, has a ring-like appearance that I think expresses the idea of shimmering.
I then photographed the same scene with a 50mm f/1.4 lens, and, as you can see, the bokeh is softer and rounder, expressing to the viewer a different idea about how the morning light looks and feels.
I then photographed the same scene with a 50mm f/1.4 lens, and, as you can see, the bokeh is softer and rounder, expressing to the viewer a different idea about how the morning light looks and feels.

One thing us nerdish-leaning photographers do is pull out old lenses and explore their “bokeh,” which is a term used to describe the quality of the out-of-focus areas in an image. It’s not only fun, it can teach us how to use tricks and techniques like this more effectively in the future.

I love to photograph the outdoors where I live. My home is in Byng, on a nice patch of green. I love photographing my dogs. I love photographing mornings and evenings.

One thing I love to photograph that stands above these other things is the light itself. I love it when it takes on colors and and shapes and textures. I love it when light plays tricks, or shines through otherwise normal objects to make them striking or beautiful.

Photography is literally recording light, and I am reinventing my ideas about how to record light all the time. What will you do today to reinvent how you make pictures?

As my morning progressed, I had need of a toothpick. This container had just the right number of toothpicks in it that they fell into this interesting, colorful configuration.
As my morning progressed, I had need of a toothpick. This container had just the right number of toothpicks in it that they fell into this interesting, colorful configuration.

The Fabulous Fifty

I’ve said on more than a few occasions that I love the 50mm focal length.

Another 50mm? Yes!
Another 50mm? Yes!

There are quite a few reasons to love your 50mm, but at the top of the list is that in human scale terms, it fits just right into the efficiency quotient of manufacturing, shipping, cost, weight, and, of course, making pictures with it. For decades now, the photographic community has dubbed it the “Nifty Fifty.”

Of course, I have maybe a dozen of these gems sitting around, some in camera bags in the field, others in shelves in my home photo studio, others still on adaptors, waiting to be mounted on a mirrorless camera and experimented with.

Why, then, did I buy yet another 50mm recently? It started a couple of Christmases ago when I bought a couple of photo grab bags, one of which contained a Canon EOS Digital Rebel XT, a squirrely little camera of 2005 vintage. It worked fine, and I’ve shot a few assignments with it, all with the unimpressive but ubiquitous 18-55mm “kit” lens that equipped almost every Canon consumer digital SLR in history.

I shot a with it, then put it away, only to dig it out again and again, trying to to remember to throw it over my shoulder as a second camera at a street festival or softball game. All the while, I kept asking myself if there was any point to using this camera. Wasn’t it hopelessly outdated, with it’s three frames per second, 1600-maximum ISO, and 1.8-inch view screen on the back? Sure, but photographers (at least the creative ones) love to tinker and play with whatever gear we can find, and no camera is truly worthless until it stops working.

The 50mm lens, from the top $1600 Nikon or Sony to the lowly $85 Yongnuo 50mm f/1.8 is a wonderful focal length. I made this with the Yongnuo in my back yard a few evenings ago.
The 50mm lens, from the top $1600 Nikon or Sony to the lowly $85 Yongnuo 50mm f/1.8 is a wonderful focal length. I made this with the Yongnuo in my back yard a few evenings ago.

I looked on Ebay for Canon EF lenses that might bring new life to this camera, but they remained expensive, especially on a camera that might die in my hands the next day.

Finally, finally, on Amazon, I saw a 50mm f/1.8 from Chinese lens maker Yongnuo, marked down twice to something like $85 on Prime Day.

The result was predictable, but not in a bad way. The lens did the job the “Nifty Fifty” promised, and if the camera died, I’d probably gift the 50 to some Canon user out there who also needed to dial up there game.

So, yes, I have yet another 50mm lens, and yes, I will be making pictures with it.

Hopefully, the experimental combination of old digital camera and cheap 50mm lens will yield some great, and maybe even unexpected, results.
Hopefully, the experimental combination of old digital camera and cheap 50mm lens will yield some great, and maybe even unexpected, results.

Circling Back to My Favorites

Before I make my main point, I’d like to take a second and say that photographers have really been embarrassing themselves at the Olympics this week, including one who obliviously wandered onto the track where an active race was taking place, forcing runners to go around him. I am appalled , but not surprised – photographers can be very self-absorbed.

My 1985-era 85mm f/2.0 is a great-looking lens, and feels great in my hands. Some photographers claimed it wasn't as sharp as other 85mm lenses of the era, but I've proven that wrong time and again.
My 1985-era 85mm f/2.0 is a great-looking lens, and feels great in my hands. Some photographers claimed it wasn’t as sharp as other 85mm lenses of the era, but I’ve proven that wrong time and again.

Anyway.

Many photographers own more than their share of lenses. I am one such photographer. I love lenses, especially those from the era in which I was building my skills as a young photojournalist.

I thought about this at a monthly open-mic event I attended this week, to which I brought my Nikkor 85mm f/2.0 lens, a lens I owned in the 1990s, and always regretted selling, then found again on Ebay.

This 85mm is not my main “duty” lens (that honor goes to my autofocus 85mm f/1.8), so I don’t get it out as often as I’d like. When I make a point to throw it into the mix, I am never disappointed.

One of my favorite things about using older, manual-focus lenses is the reassurance that I am still able to actually focus a lens. It’s a skill I am happy to say I still possess, in part because I remember to keep it fresh.

I also love using old, sometimes obscure lenses on mirrorless cameras with adaptors.

Most of my advice about using old lenses starts with the familiar, the 50mm lens. I have something like 12 of these lenses, whether from boxes of junk from garage sales, given to me by someone who never uses them, or on cameras that I put away on the “one of these days” shelf. The classic 50mm lens is very much right-sized in human hands and to the eye, they are cheap and plentiful, and are usually sharp and bright.

And yes, I know I have offered up this challenge before, but my experience using my old prime lenses at the open mic thing this week was just great. So get out your old 50mm, 85mm, 105mm, 135mm, tag me or collar me on the street, and between us and these classic lenses, and I’ll bet we can make some great pictures.

I love the way I can stay reasonably inconspicuous with a small prime lens like the 85mm f/2.0. So many photographers barge into a scene with huge gear, party because they need it, but partly because it feeds our egos.
I love the way I can stay reasonably inconspicuous with a small prime lens like the 85mm f/2.0. So many photographers barge into a scene with huge gear, party because they need it, but partly because it feeds our egos.

The Claw

I’ve been taking pictures for a living for a long time. The apex of technology when I started in this field were cameras like the Nikon F2, the Canon F-1, the Hasselblad 500 series, and the Leica M and R series. It was a very interesting time in the evolution of photography.

Most long-time Nikon photographers will recognize the "claw" on the aperture ring of Nikkor lenses.
Most long-time Nikon photographers will recognize the “claw” on the aperture ring of Nikkor lenses.

The film technology on the day I started my first job in journalism as an intern in 1982 was Kodak Tri-X Pan Film in the black-and-white realm, and Kodacolor, Kodachrome or Ektachrome in color. Fuji had only begun to compete with Kodak, and had yet to introduce their groundbreaking films like FujiChrome Velvia or Fuji’s Super G and Super HG line of color negative films, and Fujicolor Press, which I used all the time in the early 1990s.

One piece of kit that has changed completely since I’ve been in the business is the way lenses are made. Until the 1990s, most lenses were built like tanks, but as plastics got better and bottom line profits got more important, lenses just aren’t build like they once were.

An older Nikkor lens with an aperture "claw" is shown next to a lens from the next generation of Nikkor lenses that used a notch in the ring itself instead of a claw.
An older Nikkor lens with an aperture “claw” is shown next to a lens from the next generation of Nikkor lenses that used a notch in the ring itself instead of a claw.

An interesting piece of trivia about Nikon lenses made prior to 1977 is the crescent-shaped metal “claw” on the aperture ring. When you mounted a lens on a camera from that era like a Nikon F2 or a Nikkormat, the claw would engage a pin in a collar around the lens mount of the camera. The procedure, which most non-photographers have never seen, is to mount the lens on the camera, then rack the aperture ring until it stopped in both directions, which would set a little tab in the collar to the maximum aperture of the lens.

A lesser-known fact about the old aperture indexing "claw" is that the holes machined into the ears of the claw are there to let light through to the smaller aperture numbers behind the larger numbers. The smaller aperture numbers were part of Nikon's "Aperture Direct Readout," which let the photographer see the selected aperture in the viewfinder.
A lesser-known fact about the old aperture indexing “claw” is that the holes machined into the ears of the claw are there to let light through to the smaller aperture numbers behind the larger numbers. The smaller aperture numbers were part of Nikon’s “Aperture Direct Readout,” which let the photographer see the selected aperture in the viewfinder.

A photographer friend of mine showed me her Nikkormat a few years ago, and I saw that the aperture wasn’t indexed, so I dutifully racked the aperture ring back and forth. She’d never seen that done, and told me she didn’t even know it was a thing.

Believe it or not, the “skeleton holes” drilled on either side of the claw were there to let light shine on the ADR (Aperture Direct Readout) scale, the smaller aperture scale below the main aperture scale.

Our photographic history is so interesting, and one of the funnest things about it is that we have access to old cameras and lenses that still work perfectly. I would encourage you to dig out and dust off these old machines, and if you are so inclined, shoot some film with them. But if film photography doesn’t interest you, these machines remain so interesting, and, as it happens, can be excellent props for photo and video shoots, so get them out, play with them, and have fun!

This is what the aperture indexing "claw" looked like on a Nikkormat of the late 1960s and early 1970s. Note that this claw doesn't have holes cut into it because it predates Nikon's "Aperture Direct Readout" feature.
This is what the aperture indexing “claw” looked like on a Nikkormat of the late 1960s and early 1970s. Note that this claw doesn’t have holes cut into it because it predates Nikon’s “Aperture Direct Readout” feature.

Can Old Lenses Learn New Tricks?

Last week I talked a little about my 200mm vs my 180mm, both from a previous era of photography.

This is me holding my ancient Nikkor 400mm f/3.5 on my also-ancient Nikon D3. It turns out that the three of us are a great combination.
This is me holding my ancient Nikkor 400mm f/3.5 on my also-ancient Nikon D3. It turns out that the three of us are a great combination.

Today I’d like to take a look at my 40-year-old Nikkor 400mm f/3.5. This lens was the envy of all of us in 1985. I saw them all the time, at press events and big games like OU and OSU football.

One photographer of the era called it a “sweet piece of glass.”

When this lens was new, most photographers couldn’t afford to buy it, so most of the 400mm through 600mm lenses I saw in the field belonged to their employers, like the Dallas Morning News or the Associated Press.

Last month a much younger photographer and I were talking shop, and he kind of scoffed at the idea that I still own, and still use, older camera gear. After all, every time a new camera is announced, one of the selling points is how fast and accurate the autofocus is.

I’m willing to bet that this younger photographer has been using autofocus lenses his whole career, and manual focus is just a novelty. I could hear in his voice the doubts that he had when I told him I was still pretty good at focussing manually. And why wouldn’t I be? I spent the first 20 years of my career with manual-focus lenses.

Flash forward to last week. I was at my last baseball game of the season, Latta vs Cashion. Because of a rain delay, I arrived at Shawnee High School a little early, in time for me to make a few frames of the end of the previous game, Wister vs Preston.

I decided earlier in the day that I wanted to shoot this game with my 400mm, though I couldn’t really say why. Maybe part of it was that I didn’t need to generate dozens of images, since this was the last game of the season.

Preston baseball teams members and coaches go wild after a single and an error allowed them to score the winning run in a first-round playoff game last week in Shawnee.
Preston baseball teams members and coaches go wild after a single and an error allowed them to score the winning run in a first-round playoff game last week in Shawnee.

The game was tied, so I assumed it would be a while before my local team got on the field, but just as I set up, Preston hit a grounder, but Wister bobbled the ball, allowing Preston to score, winning the game.

Before my eyes and in my viewfinder, I captured celebration and dejection through my 400mm. And, it turns out, I can still focus, fast and accurately, and this lens, a relic from 1985, was still “a sweet piece of glass.”

I always feel bad for the kids who lose in the playoffs, like these Wister baseball players last week.
I always feel bad for the kids who lose in the playoffs, like these Wister baseball players last week.

How Can Two Very Different Lenses Be the Same?

Once in a while, when I am going through my gear and trying (usually unsuccessfully) to get better organized, I pull out one of my oldest, most prized lenses, a Nikkor 200mm f/2.0, and set it aside with the notion that I am going to insert it into my workflow in some way.

This lens is from a period in photography known for build quality, an era in which cameras were made by hand, often in Japan or Germany, and when you take a camera or lens from that era in hand, the phrase “they don’t build them like they used to” leaps to mind.

This 200mm is no exception. It is big, heavy, smooth, and quiet, and handles like a scientific instrument.

That period of photography lasted for much of the 20th century, and I have nothing but admiration for those products.

But that era was about to collide with the next: an increase in computer aided design and manufacturing, married to a period of increasing outsourcing to countries with cheaper labor around the Pacific rim, and an increased use of plastic, which saved both weight and cost.

So how does this add up? My beloved 200mm f/2.0 is an art object, but decidedly optically inferior to modern lenses.

The obvious replacement for a lens like this is a modern 70-200mm zoom, and yes, I have one. It is optically unimpeachable, sharp and fast to focus, completely reliable, but, sometimes, just a little boring. We all have one. We all make the same photos with them.

My wild card in the deck is a lens from between these two eras, the AF Nikkor 180mm f/2.8. I love this lens, both because it is super-sharp, even wide open (f/2.8), but also that it has it’s roots in the same build era as the 200mm.

Comparing them, though, is one reason I make so few pictures with the 200mm. The 180mm does pretty much everything as well as the 200mm, and the reason is a little unexpected: the 200mm isn’t very sharp when used wide open, at f/2.0. To get sharp results, I really need to stop down two-thirds of an f/stop, which is true for a lot of lenses. The 180mm, though, is absolutely great wide open. So the choice really becomes: do I shoot with the 200mm at f/2.5, or shoot with the 180mm, which is five times lighter, at f/2.8.

Everyone likes lighter cameras when we have to carry them, and I am no exception. I’ve been lugging gear from press conferences to house fires to ball games since college in 1981, and it adds up.

In conclusion, no, I am not interested in selling my giant 200mm f/2.0, but I doubt I will use it all that much. It’s a beautiful relic from the past that I can just admire and play with once in a while.

My AF Nikkor 180mm f/2.8 and my Nikkor 200mm f/2.0 sit on my kitchen table recently.
My AF Nikkor 180mm f/2.8 and my Nikkor 200mm f/2.0 sit on my kitchen table recently.

My Travel Photography Kit

I made this image on the trail at the western portion of Saguaro National Park. Shot with the Nikon D5500 and the AF-S Nikkor 18-135mm f/4.5-5.6, it has a lot of detail, and just a bit of flare and ghosting.
I made this image on the trail at the western portion of Saguaro National Park. Shot with the Nikon D5500 and the AF-S Nikkor 18-135mm f/4.5-5.6, it has a lot of detail, and just a bit of flare and ghosting.

My readers might recall that I spent spring break in Arizona, hiking and exploring. One result of this was that I missed covering one of the biggest news events of the year in Ada, a huge hailstorm.

Nevertheless, I had an amazing time. I visited Chiricahua National Monument, both halves of Saguaro National Park, Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, Montezuma Castle National Monument, The Pima Air and Space Museum, San Xavier del Bac Mission, and Biosphere 2, and had several out-of-the-way drives through Arizona and New Mexico.

The trip exceeded my expectations, and I feel it was a complete success.

Of course, photography is at the top of the list for trips like this, but when I travel, I am definitely not the same photographer I am for my newspaper. Key among these differences is that when I travel, I travel light, and my photographic kit is light and simple as well.

One reason I can do this is because I am not shooting sports and news, which often requires big, heavy, high-performance cameras and lenses, and travel photography requires high image quality, but doesn’t usually require high frame rates, high-ISO settings, or large apertures.

My kits have shifted some over the years, but here is what I used for my most recent trip: the Nikon D7100, the Nikon D5500, the AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6, the AF-S Nikkor 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6, the AF-S Nikkor 10-20mm f/4.5-5.6, the AF-S Nikkor 35mm f/1.8, and the AF-S Nikkor 85mm f/1.8.

I love the combination of the D7100 and the 18-200mm, but together they are kind of heavy, so I worked more this trip with the D5500 and the 18-135mm, which is much lighter, so that’s my news favorite combination for those long hikes.

Some photographers might note that I don’t have any super-telephoto lenses in this lineup, but since I have no interest in photographing wildlife, I’ve never really needed one.

Traveling light means having more fun, and being able to go deeper into the backcountry. It definitely works for me.

Pictured from left to right are the AF-S Nikkor 85mm f/1.8, the AF-S Nikkor 10-20mm f/4.5-5.6 on the Nikon D5500, the AF-S Nikkor 35mm f/1.8, the Nikkor AF-S 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 on the Nikon D7100, and the AF-S Nikkor 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6.
Pictured from left to right are the AF-S Nikkor 85mm f/1.8, the AF-S Nikkor 10-20mm f/4.5-5.6 on the Nikon D5500, the AF-S Nikkor 35mm f/1.8, the AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 on the Nikon D7100, and the AF-S Nikkor 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6.

I Love a Parade!

It’s one of my worst kept secrets: I love a parade. It’s also no secret that my favorite parade of all time is the Pat Taylor Memorial Parade of Lights every December here in Ada.

The Parade of Lights has gotten easier to photograph as technology has improved, both in terms of cameras, and the lights on display.
The Parade of Lights has gotten easier to photograph as technology has improved, both in terms of cameras, and the lights on display.

My strategy for photographing nighttime parades is pretty straightforward: sky-high ISO settings and large aperture lenses. I usually use my 180mm f/2.8 and my 20mm f/2.8, both older designs, but very capable.

Digital imaging has made a difference, but incrementally. In the early 2000s, for example, my digital cameras were the Nikon D1H and the Kodak DCS720x, at the top of the low-light game in their day, but definitely left behind by one generation after another of better and better digital cameras.

In the film days, there was Kodak T-Max P3200, a high-ISO black-and-white film I used for sports. But a Christmas parade is often very colorful, and that left shooting films like Fujicolor 1600, which was okay.

This is a scan of one of my Parade of Lights images from 1995. Made with Kodak T-Max P3200 film, you can see it is pretty grainy. Still, I got an image, and sometimes that's what counts the most in photojournalism.
This is a scan of one of my Parade of Lights images from 1995. Made with Kodak T-Max P3200 film, you can see it is pretty grainy. Still, I got an image, and sometimes that’s what counts the most in photojournalism.

It is an understatement that I no longer have to rely on such limitations.

Additionally, the lights themselves have transitioned to Light Emitting Diodes, or LEDs, and are brighter and less yellow-red.

So, fast forward to this year’s Parade of Lights: I shot it all at ISO 12,800, knowing that I could fall back on photography’s newest secret weapon: Lightroom’s AI-based noise reduction feature.

I know it sounds like cheating, or even skirting the edge of ethics, because AI has the potential to damage photojournalistic credibility, but I am always up front about how I use it: never alter content.

Even with the stratospheric ISO and f/2.8 lenses, I was still down to 1/30th of a second shutter speeds sometimes, so I just had to accept that many of my images would be throw-aways.

So if you made it to the Parade this year, and I’m guessing from the hundreds and hundreds of people there that you did, you would have seen me prowling around, having the time of my life, making tons of pictures. I love a parade!

Kids wave at passing floats in this year's Parade of Lights.
Kids wave at passing floats in this year’s Parade of Lights.

Who Wants Pancakes?

There are so many lenses for sale these days, from the $16,296.95 Nikon AF-S 800mm f/5.6 FL ED VR superlens, all the way down to a lens one of my students showed off recently, a camera body cap which holds the lens taken from a disposable film camera, on sale for $19.99.

The Lumix 14mm f/2.5 "pancake lens" is shown on my well-used Lumix GH2.
The Lumix 14mm f/2.5 “pancake lens” is shown on my well-used Lumix GH2.

One lens I’ve kept my eye on for nearly a year since I got ahold of a second-hand Lumix GH2 is a so-called “pancake lens,” so named due to its flatness, a Lumix 14mm f/2.5.

I have several lenses in this class, all small and lightweight, so I watched, but didn’t buy, this lens until a Black Friday sale offered it for less than $100, so I finally relented.

This 14mm fits on a Micro 4/3 camera, and is a standard wide angle.

It weighs less than two ounces. According to random Internet sources, that is the weight of a tennis ball, two slices of bread, two AA batteries, 50 jelly beans, and so on.

The Lumix 14mm f/2.5 stands in front of my other pancake lens, the Fujifilm 18mm f/2.0. Because of different sensor sizes between Fuji's APS-C and Lumix' Micro 4/3 means the lenses provide a very similar angle of view.
The Lumix 14mm f/2.5 stands in front of my other pancake lens, the Fujifilm 18mm f/2.0. Because of different sensor sizes between Fuji’s APS-C and Lumix’ Micro 4/3 means the lenses provide a very similar angle of view.

The lens is so small on the camera, I can’t really get my usual (and correct) left-hand-under grip, which is okay, since there is only one control, a focus ring, on the lens anyway. I tried it out, and found it was very awkward to try to manually focus it.

I threw it over my shoulder for a couple of dog walks, and the photos I made with it look pretty good. They are sharp, especially at the largest aperture, f/2.5. (For what it’s worth, almost all lenses are “sharp” at f/11, so being sharp “wide open” matters.)

Maple leaves in the front yard show off the 14mm's angle of view, sharpness, and subject separation.
Maple leaves in the front yard show off the 14mm’s angle of view, sharpness, and subject separation.

I am not a collector. In fact, I honestly believe that if you don’t use something, you should think about getting rid of it. At least one friend of mine gives his older cameras and lenses to his kids and grandkids when he is done with them.

So what will be my prime focus (so to speak) while using this lens? I’d like to throw it in as a wild card, something I might carry as casually as we carry our phones, going to it when I want to be more spontaneous. I certainly have cameras and lenses that accomplish that, but all at a cost, my achy-breaky shoulders. Any time I can add capability while lightening my load, my body and my photography both win.

The Lumix 14mm f/2.5 is shown with some pennies for scale.
The Lumix 14mm f/2.5 is shown with some pennies for scale.

The Lenses I Miss the Most

My Chihuahua Summer strikes a pose for my newest old lens, the Nikkor 35mm f/2.0, shot at f/2.8. As you can see, this lens has something to add to my game.
My Chihuahua Summer strikes a pose for my newest old lens, the Nikkor 35mm f/2.0, shot at f/2.8. As you can see, this lens has something to add to my game.

Like a majority of photographers, I have had various pieces of equipment pass through my hands. Many of them were great, while many of them, like the Nikon D1 or the Nikkor 43-86mm, were absolute duds.

I especially love lenses.

I had a pretty standard kit coming up on the newspaper scene in the 1980s. In fact, most of us had this setup:

Two or three cameras, for me, usually the Nikon FM2 with a motor drive, along with the following lenses:Ā  the Nikkor 24mm f/2.0 AI-S, the Nikkor 35mm f/2.0 AI-S, the Nikkor 105mm f/1.8 AI-S, the Nikkor 180mm f/2.8 ED-IF, and the Nikkor 300mm f/2.8 ED-IF.

I'm always surprised at how similar Nikon's lenses of this generation look, like this 35mm f/2.0 next to the 85mm f/2.0. One reason for this is they shared a filter size, 52mm, which Nikon touted as an advantage, so you wouldn't have to buy more than one set of filters.
I’m always surprised at how similar Nikon’s lenses of this generation look, like this 35mm f/2.0 next to the 85mm f/2.0. One reason for this is they shared a filter size, 52mm, which Nikon touted as an advantage, so you wouldn’t have to buy more than one set of filters.

As the years went by, I found bargains on other lenses, like the Nikkor 400mm f/3.5 ED-IF, the Nikkor 85mm f/2.0 AI-S, the Nikkor 25-50mm f/4 AI, several 28mm and 135mm lenses, and three different 20mm lenses.

Earlier in my career, I bought a Sigma Zoom 28-80mm f/3.5-4.5, back in the day when Sigma was a very cheap (in all respects) lens. I sold it within about three months, since I never made a sharp image with it.

The most disappointing lens of this era was the Nikkor 25-50mm f/4. I had such high hopes for this rare, well-made Nikkor lens, but it was hard to focus because the focus throw (how far you need to twist the focus ring) was so long. It was okay at 25mm, but nobody loves a heavy, huge 50mm f/4 lens.

The front elements of the 35mm and the 85mm have similar multi-coating that gives the purple-green appearance.
The front elements of the 35mm and the 85mm have similar multi-coating that gives the purple-green appearance.

I gradually traded or all my 1980s-era Nikkor lenses for more modern lenses, mostly zooms, but I still missed some of my favorites, and recently picked another one up from a seller on Ebay, a 35mm f/2.0 of 1980’s vintage. I missed this lens after I sold it because I saw it’s potential, but didn’t take advantage of it when I had it.

The 35mm lens is sometimes regarded as a “normal” lens on 35mm-sized imaging sensors, slightly wider than the ever-present 50mm, letting photographers build a pleasing narrative without the distraction of the foreshortening that wider lenses can create.

I am also finding fewer and fewer mentions or reviews of lenses like these, and the photographic historian in me wants to remember and preserve the amazing images made by thousands of photojournalists across the globe made with lenses like these.

So, as a short review, the Nikkor 35mm f/2.0 lens is beautifully made, a pleasure to use, gives sharp, detailed images, and has pleasant selective focus with good bokeh.

So there is another lens in my bag of tricks, which goes well with my rare skill in that same bag of tricks: that I can still focus a manual-focus lens.

The Nikkor 35mm f/2.0 lens sits mounted on my Nikon D3. It's a great combination.
The Nikkor 35mm f/2.0 lens sits mounted on my Nikon D3. It’s a great combination.

Filters, Filters, Filters!

A photographer friend and I were talking recently about how and why we use filters on the lenses of our cameras. The discussion centered around clear “lens protector” filters, but in that same group of filters are “UV haze” filters, and “skylight” filters.

I am not a collector by nature, but photographic filters seem to find their way to me. Many of these filters came from camera bags that were given to me or sold in estate and garage sales in "grab bag" fashion.
I am not a collector by nature, but photographic filters seem to find their way to me. Many of these filters came from camera bags that were given to me or sold in estate and garage sales in “grab bag” fashion.

They all do essentially the same thing to your images: nothing. Many photographers use them to keep rain, smoke, dust, and their own clumsy finger off the front elements of their lenses.

In the film era, the thinking was that ultraviolet light in the atmosphere would be a problem because it would contaminate our images. The answer was the UV (ultra-violet) filter, sometimes with the word “haze” added because it would supposedly reduce the appearance of haze in the distance, since haze tends to be in the blue to ultra-violet portion of the spectrum. If you look closely, you will see this filter is very faintly yellow.

I have a few more than a few UV-haze and skylight filters in my collections. They seem to accumulate more than anything else.
I have a few more than a few UV-haze and skylight filters in my collections. They seem to accumulate more than anything else.

Likewise, a lot of film photographers, including me, used a “skylight” filter on their lenses, since magazines like Modern Photography and Popular Photography told us to. This filter appears very faintly pink if you look through it.

Those filters were intended for use primarily for color photography, but we almost always left them on our lenses when we shot in black-and-white. The exposure penalty is negligible, as is any noticeable tonal rendition.

Other filters for color film photography included color correction filters for use with daylight-balanced film in incandescent or fluorescent light, or to fine-tune color balance in a studio setting.

Here are three "graduated" filters, part of a kit that screws onto the front of a lens, letting you drop in filters like this, and rotate them to change where to effect is strongest.
Here are three “graduated” filters, part of a kit that screws onto the front of a lens, letting you drop in filters like this, and rotate them to change where to effect is strongest.

A popular filter paradigm in the late-1970s was the “graduated neutral density filter,” so named because they gradually got lighter or darker across the image area. You could get these filters in colors, too, so your image would be unchanged at the bottom of a frame, for example, and blue or brown or red toward the top of the frame. Watch the intro the the movie Top Gun, the jets on the carrier scenes, and you will see that they used exactly that to created those sunsetty-looking shots.

Here is the kind of effect you can expect to get if you use graduated filters.
Here is the kind of effect you can expect to get if you use graduated filters.

Like a lot of trends, this kind of filter system experienced a flash of popularity which waned quickly, but stuck around at a low level, and once in a while you can see these filters in use, especially with nature photographers.

Here is a spectrum of filters for black-and-white films. Filters like these have mostly been orphaned by software like Photoshop, and "film look" in-camera settings.
Here is a spectrum of filters for black-and-white films. Filters like these have mostly been orphaned by software like Photoshop, and “film look” in-camera settings.

My favorite kinds of photographic filters are for black-and-white photography, although I didn’t get to use them very often. Their impacts on images could be dramatic. Red and orange filters would block blues and greens, creating deep, dark skies and cutting haze, while yellow and green filters tended to help black-and-white films respond more realistically. Blue filters, thought seldom used, darkened red and yellow areas, and lightened blues.

I only made a handful of really successful black-and-white medium-format images in my day. This is probably my favorite. It depicts a clearing summer thunderstorm over the Pecos River in northern New Mexico. I shot it with my Fujifilm GW670 III using Kodak Verichrome Pan Film, with a deep orange filter on the lens. The filter helped create the deep skies and shadows.
I only made a handful of really successful black-and-white medium-format images in my day. This is probably my favorite. It depicts a clearing summer thunderstorm over the Pecos River in northern New Mexico. I shot it with my Fujifilm GW670 III using Kodak Verichrome Pan Film, with a deep orange filter on the lens. The filter helped create the deep skies and shadows.
This view from the top of the Capulin Volcano in northeastern New Mexico emphasizes the beauty of the high-desert sky. Made with my Fuji 6x7 loaded with Kodak Verichrome Pam Film, I filtered the lens with a deep orange filter.
This view from the top of the Capulin Volcano in northeastern New Mexico emphasizes the beauty of the high-desert sky. Made with my Fuji 6×7 loaded with Kodak Verichrome Pam Film, I filtered the lens with a deep orange filter.

Finally, there are polarizers, but I promise to cover those in another article.

The golden age of filters is gone, mostly because of editing software like Photoshop, which can accomplish most types of filtration effortlessly.

Easily the weirdest of the color-correction filters is the "FL-D," meant for use with daylight-balanced film in fluorescent lighting conditions. That in itself isn't weird. The weird part is that I see dozens of these in the hands of photographers who buy digital camera "kits", which usually include a cheap tripod, maybe some cleaning cloths, and, for some reason, this filter, which is completely useless and obsolete in the digital age.
Easily the weirdest of the color-correction filters is the “FL-D,” meant for use with daylight-balanced film in fluorescent lighting conditions. That in itself isn’t weird. The weird part is that I see dozens of these in the hands of photographers who buy digital camera “kits”, which usually include a cheap tripod, maybe some cleaning cloths, and, for some reason, this filter, which is completely useless and obsolete in the digital age.

Bokeh Wars

The second I heard Nikon introduced a new $2500 lens that "made great bokeh," I stepped out into my front yard and created this "bokeh" with a $5 Minolta 58mm f/1.4 lens.
The second I heard Nikon introduced a new $2500 lens that “made great bokeh,” I stepped out into my front yard and created this “bokeh” with a $5 Minolta 58mm f/1.4 lens.

I hope my readers forgive me if I seem a little cynical about this topic: bokeh.

This week’s big photographic news is Nikon’s introduction of a new lens called “Plena,” a 135mm f/1.8 lens that promises, according to early releases, “beautiful, well-rounded bokeh,” among other things.

It is a reminder that this one word, “bokeh,” has taken photography to a place that resembles a fetish.Ā  Photographers, mostly the photographers who make a living talking about photography rather than actually being photographers, can’t shut up about “bokeh.”

They trot out terms like “bokeh balls”, “buttery bokeh”, “creamy bokeh”, “dreamy bokeh”, even “insane bokeh”, and on and on. Almost all of their photography consists of making pictures to show which lenses make better bokeh, or how to make bokeh itself, which, if you understand the term, isn’t even a real thing.

What offends me so much about this is the idea that it creates a culture of buying creativity, which anyone with a soul knows is ideologically impossible and socially poisonous.

Here is the bottom line, one the YouTubers and camera makers don’t want to hear: once you have figured out how to use selective focus and bokeh, you can put those skills into your toolbox and stop talking about them. I figured out these techniques very early in my career, and use them when I need them, ignore them when I don’t need them, and never, ever worry about what I should buy to, well, make me a better person.

Yeah, bokeh. Too easy, too overdone. And before you ask, this "bokeh" was generated using a 35-year-old Nikkor 85mm f/2.0.
Yeah, bokeh. Too easy, too overdone. And before you ask, this “bokeh” was generated using a 35-year-old Nikkor 85mm f/2.0.

A Shot in the Dark

A friend of mine asked me this week about how to shoot candlelight vigils. She’d been to one, and while she got some usable images, she was not able to catch any magic with her camera.

Vietnam veteran James Pippen salutes as he holds a candle during an Ada Indivisible candlelight vigil in 2017.
Vietnam veteran James Pippen salutes as he holds a candle during an Ada Indivisible candlelight vigil in 2017.

Photographing low light situations has always been a challenge, but it has gotten easier in the last few years as the highest ISO settings, which control how sensitive the imaging sensor is to light, have shot into the stratosphere. It is pretty common in 2023 to shoot at ISO 12,800 with surprisingly controllable noise.

Even so, photographers sometimes run into situations where we are right on the margins of imaging: kids around a Christmas tree, detectives with flashlights at crime scenes, Relay for Life lit by luminaria, bonfires, people at fireworks shows, and, of course, candlelight vigils.

Luminaries glow at Relay for Life 2014 at Ada High School Friday, May 30, 2014. For this image, I used a tripod, which allowed me to shoot with a smaller aperture while still collecting a nice balance of last evening light with candles inside luminaria.
Luminaries glow at Relay for Life 2014 at Ada High School Friday, May 30, 2014. For this image, I used a tripod, which allowed me to shoot with a smaller aperture while still collecting a nice balance of last evening light with candles inside luminaria.

I tend to lean on lenses with very large maximum apertures, like f/1.8 to f/1.4. The easiest way to get into lenses in this category is to look at 50mm lenses. They have been around for decades, are easy and cheap to make, are lightweight, and, most importantly, they let a lot of light into the camera.

I know a couple of very talented photographers who have even brighter (known in the biz as “faster”) lenses, like the 85mm f/1.2.

Nothing invites you to the low-light party like lenses with vary large maximum apertures. Here are two 50mm f/1.4 lenses. The 50mm class of lenses is a great place to start low light photography.
Nothing invites you to the low-light party like lenses with vary large maximum apertures. Here are two 50mm f/1.4 lenses. The 50mm class of lenses is a great place to start low light photography.

Note that not all 50mm lenses are sharp wide open. Most 50mms need to be stopped down just a squinch, maybe to f/2, but that still invites a lot of light into the camera.

Tripods are another factor, though I find they slow me down. You can park your camera on a tripod and shoot at medium ISO values and medium aperture. The only problem that presents is that if people move while the shutter is open, they can be blurred, but there are some instances in which that can actually help your image, if that’s the look you want.

A good practice session might involve going outside with a 50mm set to f/1.8 and shoot by porch light or streetlight light and experiment with how to finesse those situations. Don’t be afraid to push yourself and your camera outside your comfort zone. Failed experiments can teach us a lot.

Once in a while I'll reach into my bag of tricks and pull out my rare and slightly mysterious Nikkor 200mm f/2.0. It is a challenging lens to use, and is big and heavy. And while I expect to delete a bigger percentage of images made with this lens, it has some very real low-light potential.
Once in a while I’ll reach into my bag of tricks and pull out my rare and slightly mysterious Nikkor 200mm f/2.0. It is a challenging lens to use, and is big and heavy. And while I expect to delete a bigger percentage of images made with this lens, it has some very real low-light potential.

Mirror Mirror

This article was originally posted in 2015, but this update reflects the fact that I recently purchased another Reflex-Nikkor 500mm f/8 lens.

The Reflex-Nikkor 500mm f/8 lens, second from the left, sits in the company of a 50mm f/1.4, an 85mm f/1.4, and a 500mm Opteka mirror lens.
The Reflex-Nikkor 500mm f/8 lens, second from the left, sits in the company of a 50mm f/1.4, an 85mm f/1.4, and a 500mm Opteka mirror lens.
A young t-baller catches a fly in this image from the mid-1990s. Thanks to the characteristics of the mirror, or catadioptric, lens, the highlights in this image look like doughnuts.
A young t-baller catches a fly in this image from the mid-1990s. Thanks to the characteristics of the mirror, or catadioptric, lens, the highlights in this image look like doughnuts.
This is the Harlan J. Smith Telescope at the McDonald Observatory in Texas. It uses the same method of folding the optical path as the Reflex-Nikkor 500mm does.
This is the Harlan J. Smith Telescope at the McDonald Observatory in Texas. It uses the same method of folding the optical path as the Reflex-Nikkor 500mm does.

In the late 1980s through the mid 1990s, I had a Reflex-Nikkor 500mm f/8 lens. The optical formula is known as a catadioptric, or mirror, lens. Astronomers know about this type of optic, but despite being a relatively cheap way to own a long-focal-length, lightweight lens, this designĀ has fallen very much out of vogue with photographers because of a severalĀ significant shortcomings…

  • The maximum aperture is small, typically around f/8, and because of the optical design is the only aperture available.
  • Significant vignetting – darkening at the edges, so the f/8 is only f/8 in the center of the image, and the corners are more like f/16.
  • The “bokeh,” or quality of the background, isn’t just ratty or ugly, it can be, in some circumstances, downright unacceptable.
This is an obvious example of the so-called "doughnut bokeh" of the Reflex-Nikkor 500mm f/8. It's not normally this exaggerated, but I knew right where to camp, at the edge of a lake in the morning, to capture this at its best, or worst.
This is an obvious example of the so-called “doughnut bokeh” of the Reflex-Nikkor 500mm f/8. It’s not normally this exaggerated, but I knew right where to camp, at the edge of a lake in the morning, to capture this at its best, or worst.

I found that in the years that I owned it the first time, my 500mm sat at the bottom of a bag of “extra” lenses I kept in the trunk of my car, and I seldom got it out and used it. By 1997, I had the magnificent Nikkor 400mm f/3.5 ED-IF, which combined with a teleconverter to form a 560mm that was very sharp.

However, like a lot of Nikon lenses I sold, I started missing the 500mm, so I kept tabs on them on Ebay. For a long time, they were commanding a very high price. But with the development of cheap superzoom lenses for the ever-growing mirrorless camera market, prices finally fell, so I grabbed one. I got it from a seller in Japan, and this particular one is in almost perfect condition.

The 500mm f/8 Reflex-NIKKOR sits next to its hood on my kitchen table. The hood is very shot, and mostly just serves to keep my fingers off the front element.
The 500mm f/8 Reflex-NIKKOR sits next to its hood on my kitchen table. The hood is very shot, and mostly just serves to keep my fingers off the front element.
The design of the 500mm includes a mirror that faces the back of the lens, so looking in the front of the lens shows a dark disk mounted on the front element. This configuration is responsible for the odd look of out-of-focus areas.
The design of the 500mm includes a mirror that faces the back of the lens, so looking in the front of the lens shows a dark disk mounted on the front element. This configuration is responsible for the odd look of out-of-focus areas.

I put it into service the next day, and it was everything I remember: a sharp, lightweight, manual-focus lens.

The 500mm is sharp when you take care to focus it precisely, as in this image from a Latta Panthers baseball game last week. You can see a little bit of the telltale "doughnut bokeh" in the background, but it's not a deal-breaker.
The 500mm is sharp when you take care to focus it precisely, as in this image from a Latta Panthers baseball game last week. You can see a little bit of the telltale “doughnut bokeh” in the background, but it’s not a deal-breaker.

Being able to focus a lens is a dying skill, but one I personally keep alive. This lens is among the more challenging to focus because the depth-of-field is razor-thin, and the focus throw, the amount you have to turn the ring to focus, is very long. It needs to be, since long focus throws let us carefully fine tune our focus spot.

Of course, we come back to the idea that mirror lenses produce those obvious doughnut-shaped out-of-focus areas, often called, correctly so (for a change), doughnut bokeh. It can work against you, but if your backgrounds are less cluttered and darker, it’s less of an issue.

One thing that makes this 500mm better today than in the film days is that you can amp the ISO on digital cameras so you can marry the constant f/8 with a fast shutter speed.

I can’t truthfully say I recommend this lens, since there are many better options today, but buying it and using it again after all these years scratched a bit of nostalgia itch. I’m glad I got it.

Years ago I used the 500mm f/8 to make this image of two girls playing at a local school. It was a bright day and the background was quite far off and not very busy, making for a successful feature photo with this catadioptric lens.
Years ago I used the 500mm f/8 to make this image of two girls playing at a local school. It was a bright day and the background was quite far off and not very busy, making for a successful feature photo with this catadioptric lens.